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In the 18th century writings and descriptions, the southern Khanty women were shown to wear a shirt and a khalat. Shirts made of nettle cloth or thin linen were proof of the wearer's skill in embroidery. Geometric patterns, swastikas, rhombi, meanders and stylised plant themes like tulips were sewn with two different methods. First the outlines of the embroidery were sketched with black wool thread and the insides of the patterns were filled with red or dark blue thread. Glass beads were obtained in exchange for precious furs and fish. The embroidered shirts had gone out of fashion by the end of the 19th century. August Ahlqvist managed to see these dresses in use in 1880. This shirt is a typical example of an artefact from a relatively early period. Ahlqvist bought mostly aesthetically beautiful items, costumes and jewellery of the Khanty and Mansi.
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